A&J Restaurant

A&J Restaurant may be a tiny, one-room affair, but it turns out Northern Chinese dim sum with big, bold flavors. On weekend mornings, there’s often a line outside the cash-only eatery, which is wedged into the bottom level of a strip mall on Rockville Pike. The place is well worth the wait. When you get a seat, immediately order the fried pork dumplings ($6.95). They’re so juicy on the inside that you’ll want to have a second napkin handy. Definitely don’t miss the dan dan mien ($4.95)—wide noodles tossed with spicy sesame sauce and crushed peanuts. And to finish: Chinese churros ($1.65)—simple sticks of unadorned fried dough, best dipped in a bowl of warm, sweetened soy milk.

1319-C Rockville Pike, Rockville, 301-251-7878, aj-restaurant.com