Middleburg
The small-town getaway (1 hour 5 minutes)
Known for horses, hounds and hunting, Middleburg, Virginia, offers luxurious accommodations, irresistible shopping, outdoor adventure and scenic vineyards.
Make your home base Red Fox Inn & Tavern, a place with a storied legacy dating to 1728. Throughout the centuries, dignitaries including President John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and movie star Tom Cruise have spent time there. The sophisticated room offerings include the Tavern Suites, each with a separate sitting room, along with the elegant carriage house and cottages, some with two bedrooms and space for entertaining. Relax in the terraced garden, or grab a drink in the Night Fox Pub, a lively bar. The Tavern restaurant offers romantic date-night vibes, starring a four-course seasonal menu with ingredients from Virginia’s Piedmont region. Rates begin at $259.
Day 1
MORNING: On your way to Middleburg, stop in Aldie, a sneeze-and-you’ll-miss-it village with a 200-year-old grist mill. Pop into Greenheart for hand-pressed juice or an acai bowl to fuel your day, and visit the Aldie Mill Historic Park on Saturdays for a grinding demonstration. From there, drive into Middleburg to visit the National Sporting Library & Museum, which celebrates the equestrian heritage of the region with artifacts, paintings, sculptures and books.
AFTERNOON: For lunch, head to Red Bar Sushi & Best Thai Kitchen, a hidden gem with flavorful renditions of Thai classics. Then shop the boutiques along Washington Street. Begin with Crème de la Crème, with its European housewares and signature candles. Zest Clothing & Co. carries trendy items, and Chloe’s of Middleburg sells clever handbags and pet gear. Brick and Mortar Mercantile stocks merchandise featuring an irreverent sense of humor. End up at Mt. Defiance Cidery & Distillery to taste local ciders. Return to your room to enjoy house-baked cookies or maybe a treatment at the inn’s Massage Studio.
EVENING: Before dinner, wander the bucolic grounds of the Salamander Resort. Owner Sheila Johnson designed the resort to resemble a chic Virginia manor house with fireplaces and cozy corners overlooking the stunning grounds. Fine dining at the resort is anything but stuffy at Harrimans, where items from the resort’s garden are put to good use in the kitchen.
Day 2
MORNING: Enjoy Red Fox Inn’s complimentary breakfast delivered to your room before heading out for a hike. As you drive through picturesque Loudoun and Fauquier counties, you’ll pass farms, vineyards and hamlets on your way to Sky Meadows State Park. Sky Meadows has multiple trail options, from gentle sloping to rigorous rock scrambles, and access to the Appalachian Trail. The views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Virginia Piedmont are spectacular.
AFTERNOON: You’re in Northern Virginia wine country, so return to Middleburg for an afternoon of tastings. Begin at Greenhill Vineyards (experiencegreenhill.com), where you can order a Spanish, Italian and French mezze plate to accompany the exceptional wines. Next, visit Cana Vineyards (canavineyards.com), where winemaker Melanie Natoli has perfected the art of making rosé. Finish at Boxwood Estate Winery (boxwoodwinery.com), a local favorite for its beautiful tasting room and splendid scenery.
EVENING: By now, you may need a designated driver or rideshare service to return you to The Tavern at Red Fox for a
four-course dining experience, or to continue your oenophile’s journey at Tremolo Bar (tremolobar.com) in downtown Middleburg. This modern wine shop/restaurant is owned by chef Jarad Slipp, whose menu pairs perfectly with the stellar wines by the glass.
Day 3
MORNING: Drive to Morven Park (morvenpark.org) to explore the scenic grounds and formal boxwood gardens. Continue on to downtown Leesburg for a stroll through the historic district, poking around shops such as Rouge Spa & Boutique (rougespa.com), with its cornucopia of beauty products, and Global Local (glo ballocalshop.com) for Virginia-themed and international items.
AFTERNOON: Before heading home, treat yourself to a chocolate-themed brunch at The Conche (the-conche.com). The restaurant, helmed by celebrity chef Santosh Tiptur, incorporates subtle touches of chocolate into dishes such as the Conche burger and huevos rancheros, and save room for a sweet confection.
–Renee Sklarew
Fredericksburg
The history buff getaway (1 hour 15 minutes)
George Washington slept here? In Fredericksburg, Virginia, he did more than that. The site of the first president’s childhood home, this small city is rife with early American history.
Make your home base as much a part of Fredericksburg’s history as the sights. The Richard Johnston Inn was built in 1770, based on the design of John Taylor, a then-prominent architect. The inn is named after a 19th-century mayor of Fredericksburg who made the downtown domicile his home. You’ll wish you could do the same. Choose from among seven uniquely appointed rooms—our favorite is the red, white and blue Virginian—and two suites, and enjoy a memorable breakfast each morning of your stay if you choose to stick close to home. Rates begin at $170.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: As you ease into town, stop at George Washington’s Ferry Farm, where the future leader spent his formative years. Though the cherry tree story is probably fictional, we cannot tell a lie: The first president moved to this property when he was 6 years old. Tour the carefully reconstructed version of his home and learn about Colonial life for both the free Washingtons and the enslaved people who lived on the property. At Hyperion Espresso, refresh with a latte flavored with syrups made in-house from blackberries and other local ingredients. Around the corner, Caroline Street is loaded with antiques stores, including the gigantic Fredericksburg Antique Mall & Clock Shop. But perhaps the most fun store nearby is more concerned with what’s alive now. Possum-bilities sells gifts and apparel, but petting the rescued opossum ambassadors who spend their days at the store will be a highlight of your trip.
EVENING: Chef Alex Casey, a Fredericksburg native, is the mad culinary scientist behind the flavor-forward menu at Casey’s. Start with confit duck wings in mumbo sauce, then move on to hickory-smoked scallops over Israeli couscous. Save room for dessert at Carl’s Frozen Custard With its neon sign, it looks every bit of its 1947 vintage and tastes as satisfying as the melting treat did then.
Day 2
MORNING: Not much younger than Carl’s, 2400 Diner opened in 1955 and still serves one of the most satisfying breakfasts in town. The saline country ham is part of a feast that includes two eggs, a side of your choosing and bread.
AFTERNOON: One of Virginia’s most appealing burgers awaits at Foode, an all-day restaurant inside a former bank at which Abraham Lincoln once orated. For a bit of romance, sit inside the vault, which is typically filled these days with tables of happy customers. This might get you wondering about the dining and drinking habits of the Colonial era. You’ll learn all about them at the Rising Sun Tavern, a former residence of George Washington’s youngest brother, Charles, that later opened for thirsty business in 1792. Reenactors follow a script that informs and entertains. The same can be said for a tour of the nearby Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop, which operated as a medical building in the 18th century.
EVENING: One of Virginia’s best steakhouses, Fahrenheit 132 is named after the temperature at which the meat has achieved a medium-rare doneness. Here, chances are it was reared locally. The Tuscan creamed kale is a standout side.
Day 3
MORNING: After grabbing some doughy rounds at Freddy Donuts, where fresh strawberry glazed and s’mores are sure to win fans, consider taking a ride with Trolley Tours. A 75-minute jaunt in the merry red vehicle fills visitors in on the stories of the people and places in town since its founding in 1728.
AFTERNOON: On the return trip home, take a detour to The Battlefield Country Store. Oversize sandwiches piled with Kunzler bacon on fresh bread are part of the appeal, but you can’t claim to be truly in the know unless you’ve tried one of the shop’s famous milkshakes. Each weekly special is rich on its own, but the piles of cookies, candy and cake on top are what have earned this store a social following.
-Alice Levitt
Boyce
The ‘virginia is for lovers’ getaway (1 hour 25 minutes)
Picturesque and packed with charm, Clarke County, Virginia, is perfect for romantic getaways. Plan on snuggling up with your sweetie at a lavish retreat in between scenic treks, shopping expeditions, a touch of culture and history, and delicious dining.
Treat yourself to a sumptuous experience at L’Auberge Provençale, a luxurious Euro-style B&B. Top-line rooms—each named for a French icon, including Voltaire and Larousse—feature a king-size bed, spa-level two-person steam shower, fireplace, and snapshot-worthy views of rural grandeur. If you’re staying in the main inn building, choose to have the included breakfast served in your room so you can savor freshly baked pastries, farm-fresh eggs and seasonal pancakes while remaining in your bathrobe. Rates begin at $199.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: After checking in, head down to the B&B’s parlor for a sweet treat and something to sip on, which can be enjoyed in the comfort of an easy chair inside or out on the front porch. To work up an appetite for dinner, visit the State Arboretum of Virginia at Blandy Experimental Farm. To start, take a stroll along the native plant trail. Though it’s only a half-mile long, it wends its way through woodlands, wetlands and a meadow, a diverse set of habitats that are home to songbirds, turtles, deer and other wildlife. For an ad hoc aromatherapy session, wander through the herb garden while savoring the heady scents.
EVENING: Return to the B&B to dine at its award-winning restaurant, La Table Provençale, which offers an extravagant chef’s tasting menu crafted with old-world techniques and locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Feeling truly indulgent? Start the meal with caviar or add freshly shaved truffles to a course.
Day 2
MORNING: Spend the day exploring nearby Winchester, beginning with the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley,where four galleries showcase the art and history of the region, contemporary works, and a collection of dainty miniature houses. Allow time to walk the trails that thread through a 90-acre on-site park punctuated with outdoor art, and also through the Glen Burnie Gardens, a tranquil oasis highlighted by vibrant floral plantings and a small spring-fed pond aglitter with golden trout.
AFTERNOON: Grab lunch at Water Street Kitchen, an ever-bustling cafe serving up comforting fare such as fried green tomatoes, a bacon-topped double cheeseburger, and blackened Chesapeake catfish. While away the remainder of the afternoon by poking into the shops around town. A must-hit spot is Tin Top Art & Handmade, with its thoughtfully curated selection of maker-crafted goods, including cards, gifts and novelties. For a trip down memory lane, there’s Time Traveler Toys and Collectibles, a nerd-culture paradise chockablock with action figures, trading cards and nostalgic tchotchkes. Power up with a pit stop at Hopscotch Coffee & Records, where the espressos are strong and there’s vintage vinyl galore to browse.
EVENING: For a cozy farm-to-table dinner, pop into Hunter’s Head Tavern, a British-minded gastropub that makes its home in a historic building dating back to the mid-18th century. (Before you go in, get a picture in the classic red British phone booth outside.) A strong selection of starters and salads—including a formidable wedge crowned with blue cheese crumbles and house-cured bacon—precedes a menu focusing on organic, humanely raised meats sourced from nearby Ayrshire Farm. Save room for the tender, caramel-drenched sticky toffee pudding for dessert.
Day 3
MORNING: Order a gourmet picnic from L’Auberge Provençale and then head over to Shenandoah National Park to hike the Snead Farm Dickey Ridge Loop Trail, a moderate 4-miler with a few inclines that will get your heart rate up. The workout is worth the payoff: a scenic overlook where you can take in sweeping valley views and enjoy lunch. Keep an eye out for bears, which are frequently spotted in the vicinity.
AFTERNOON: Before heading home, pick up some tasty mementos. Nalls Farm Market brims with seasonal produce, local honey, homemade preserves and freshly baked pies. Another worthy visit is Burwell Morgan Mill, one of America’s oldest operating grist mills, where you can purchase freshly milled flours, cornmeal and grits.
-Nevin Martell
Baltimore
The urban getaway (1 hour)
Wrapped in coastline, Charm City is for the traveler who loves mid-Atlantic cuisine, boutique shopping and eclectic museums. Baltimore is a cache of treasures—some well known, others fresh on the scene, including a revitalized food market and a new waterfront hot spot.
Baltimore filmmaker John Waters would feel right at home at Ulysses, a boutique hotel that opened in 2022 in historic Mount Vernon. From the moment you arrive, your senses are on high alert, from the mesmerizing fragrance in the lobby to the clinking glassware in Ash Bar and the gemstone hues brightening the walls. Ulysses has quickly become a trendy gathering space, with exceptional dining and drinking options. Make this dazzling vision of hospitality your home base to say, “Good Morning Baltimore.” Rates begin at $169.
Day 1
MORNING: Begin strolling the European-inspired Mount Vernon neighborhood with Romanesque, Italianate, Greek Revival and Queen Anne architecture that dates to the 19th and early 20th centuries. Pass by Baltimore’s George Washington Monument, which predates Washington, D.C.’s, on your way to the Walters Art Museum, which offers free tours and is home to Egyptian, Renaissance, Impressionist, Asian and Middle Eastern artwork. For a pick-me-up, try Cuples Tea House and peruse the Vinyl & Pages bookstore.
AFTERNOON: Lexington Market, Baltimore’s historic food hall, reopened last year in a sparkling new building with an array of local merchants. Choose from Baltimore classics, international cuisine and a host of sweet treats before continuing your journey. At the Maryland Center for History and Culture, discover the breadth of the Old Line State’s contributions to American heritage and the arts. The center’s collection contains artifacts from 5,000 B.C. to the present day, and the creations of Maryland-born designer Claire McCardell, who refined women’s fashion in America, are a must-see. Walk by Edgar Allan Poe’s gravesite at Westminster Hall & Burying Ground; the writer died in Baltimore in 1849.
EVENING: Grab a drink at Bloom’s in the Ulysses before dining at Topside at the Hotel Revival. This midcentury marvel’s rooftop restaurant provides panoramic views of Baltimore.
Day 2
MORNING: Have breakfast at Kneads Bakeshop in Little Italy, where you can power up for a busy day with avocado toast or shakshuka. The bakery is the modern incarnation of H&S Bakery, a Baltimore family-run institution since 1943. Drive to the American Visionary Art Museum to see If You Build It, They Will Come, an exhibit featuring handcrafted spaces and interactive maps.
AFTERNOON: Walk to the top of Federal Hill to take in views of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. For lunch, visit Cross Street Market, a revitalized 19th-century destination with modern eateries. Check out Watershed, the market’s rooftop restaurant; it’s a great place to try Maryland crab soup. Then take a cruise around the harbor on the Baltimore Water Taxi.
EVENING: Baltimore Peninsula, a development on restored waterfront, has become the city’s hot spot. Visit Sagamore Spirit distillery for whiskey tasting or cocktails, then dine at Nick’s Fish House, with its beachy vibe, live music and menu for both seafarers and landlubbers.
Day 3
MORNING: For your last day, have a hearty brunch at Bunny’s, a new diner owned by Top Chef contestant Jesse Sandlin. After chicken-waffle sammies and cinnamon crunch French toast, wander around the cobblestone streets of Fells Point. This neighborhood was founded by the city’s mariners beginning in 1726 and became home for Irish, German, Jewish, Polish and Eastern European immigrants. Spend time in a cornucopia of stores, such as Su Casa for home goods, E.C. Pops for Maryland-themed products, Zelda Zen for jewelry, and Katwalk Boutique for cutting-edge apparel.
AFTERNOON: You don’t have to be a kid to love the National Aquarium. This undersea world of wonder offers observations of sharks, jellyfish, giant turtles and other marine creatures.
EVENING: Before heading home, stop in Limoncello for a legendary Kobe beef meatball and bowl of bucatini alla amatriciana.
–Renee Sklarew
Havre de Grace
The Chesapeake Bay getaway (1 hour 40 minutes)
Driving along I-95, the exit sign for Havre de Grace, Maryland, literally looms large overhead. While many motorists are just passing through en route to one of the larger northern cities, the historic coastal town’s dining and antiques scene make it a worthwhile place to stop.
Hunker down blocks from the bay and socialize with fellow guests at the Vandiver Inn, a 17-room boutique hotel stretched across three pastel green Victorian homes. Although each room is different in size and furnishings, several boast four-poster beds, fireplaces and other country-style decor reminiscent of the era. But no matter which house you stay in, head to the main building, the Vandiver Mansion, to dine and mingle on its buzzing wraparound porch or enjoy the manager’s nightly reception. Rates begin at $149 per night.
Day 1
AFTERNOON: After checking in, hit the pavement and stroll the brick storefronts along St. John and Washington streets, sneaking peeks of the bay at the corners. The surrounding neighborhood is dotted with gift, decor and furniture shops, as well as art hubs such as Arts by the Bay Gallery, a shoppable display of work by local artists that’s run by the Havre de Grace Arts Collective. If you prefer hunting for forgotten treasures, carve out more time for the antiques shops, such as Bahoukas Antique Mall and Seneca Cannery Antiques.
EVENING: Freshen up back at the inn and stick around for a drink with fellow guests in the salon. Prefer to skip happy hour and head straight to dinner? Hit up Coakley’s Pub and grab a high top on the stone patio if it’s a warm evening. The mango habanero chicken wings will be great fuel for tomorrow if you manage to avoid downing too many $9 orange crushes.
Day 2
MORNING: Get your caffeine fix (and add a cinnamon crumb cake to your order for good measure) at Java by the Bay2. If you have a minute, take a seat and enjoy the cozy retro vibe. Otherwise, pack your breakfast to go—you’re getting out on the water. Sign up to learn the basics of sailing at the Baysail School of Sailing, or rent a 22-foot keelboat for a day on Chesapeake Bay. If you want less of a time commitment, Beach Bee Yoga offers private and group paddleboard yoga classes between May and October. Or make the quick trek to the Conowingo Dam, about 20 minutes away, for world-class birdwatching, and bring your camera—dozens of bald eagles make their home here year-round, and hundreds more flock to the area from November through January.
AFTERNOON: After that adventuring, reward yourself with a scoop (or two) on the expansive porch or in the retro parlor at Bomboy’s Ice Cream. Not much of an ice cream person? Bomboy’s has a sister store across the street—Bomboy’s Candy—with enough variety to satisfy any sweet tooth.
EVENING: Dinner has to be at The Vineyard Wine Bar; order a few French-inspired small plates, such as the duck confit and bacon flatbread, to share between sips from an extensive wine list. Afterward, walk along the bayside promenade from the Concord Point Lighthouse and Keeper’s House to Millard Tydings Memorial Park, enjoying the sculptures and expansive bay view along the way.
Day 3
MORNING: Following a decadent evening, keep it simple with a breakfast of the classics, like eggs Benedict or a Monte Cristo, at Vintage Cafe. Or ignore your better judgment and grab a hot dog smothered in housemade crab dip.
AFTERNOON: Monuments and plaques commemorating Havre de Grace’s past are scattered throughout town, but walk back down to the Concord Point waterfront for a unique history lesson. A tour of the Havre de Grace Decoy Museum requires only an hour or two, but the exhibits and guides take you through the surprisingly thought-provoking history of duck hunting in the region and the carved floating “birds” treasured by hunters and art lovers to this day. Don’t give a hoot about birds? Head up to the second floor of Bahoukas Antique Mall to admire the vast collection of vintage booze bottles at the Beer MuZeum.
-Bridget Reed Morawski
This story appears in the March/April issue of Bethesda Magazine.